Should You Replace Old Wiring ?

November 4th, 2013

If your house was built more than 40 years ago, replace old electrical wiring for safety.

 

Replace Your Home Wiring Old Electrical Wiring Replacement
An outlet is ungrounded, and should be updated, if it only accommodates two-prong plugs. Image: Liz Foreman

Old wiring—even knob and tube wiring that dates back to the early 20th century—isn’t inherently dangerous, but unless you were around when the house was built, you can’t be sure the electrical system is up to code. Plus, materials such as wire insulation can deteriorate over time.

Safety issues with old wiring

Faulty wiring is the leading cause of residential fires, according to a 2009 study by the National Fire Prevention Association. And the older your house is, the greater the chances that old wiring might be outdated or unsafe.

If you don’t know the condition of your wiring, it’s worth paying a licensed electrician to inspect your electrical system. Expect to pay $150 to $300 for this service.

A good reason to consider replacing old wiring, aside from electrical home safety, is that some insurance carriers may refuse to insure houses with older electrical systems, or they may insist owners pay higher premiums.

Warning signs of outdated, old wiring

  • Breakers trip or fuses blow regularly.
  • A tingling sensation when you touch a wall switch, appliance, or receptacle.
  • Dimming and flickering lights.
  • A burning smell in a particular room or from an appliance.
  • Discolored outlets and switch plates that are warm to the touch.
  • Ungrounded outlets throughout the house (ungrounded outlets accommodate only two-prong plugs).
  • A lack of ground fault circuit interrupter (GFCI) outlets in your bathrooms, your kitchen, and other areas that may be exposed to damp and wet conditions.
  • Your house was built more than 40 years ago.

Dangers of aluminum wiring

Some houses built in the 1960s and early 1970s have aluminum wiring instead of the standard copper wire. Aluminum wiring is considered a safety hazard because wiring connections may loosen up over time. Tiny gaps between the wiring and connectors may lead to overheating and possibly fires, especially when appliances and lighting fixtures are plugged into them.

A qualified electrician can inspect your home’s wiring to determine if it’s OK to leave your existing wiring in place. The addition of copper connectors, called pigtails, at circuit breakers and receptacles usually resolve potential problems with older aluminum wiring.

Upgrading to newer receptacles and wall switches also help prevent problems.

Pat Curry   Serial remodeler Pat Curry is a former senior editor at Builder, the official magazine of the National Association of Home Builders, and a frequent contributor to real estate and home-building publications.

 

 

Information that is being provide is for Educational Purpose, Any electric work that is needing to be done, should be done by a Licensed Electrician.

PLUG FALLS OUT OF RECEPTACLE — From Wurch Electric @ WurchElectric.com

October 31st, 2013

10. Plug Falls Out of Receptacle

10. PLUG FALLS OUT OF RECEPTACLE

What it means: Worn contacts in receptacle no longer grip the prongs firmly.

Code violation? No.

Danger level: High. Loose contacts can cause arcing, which can ignite dry wood and dust.

Solution:Replace the old receptacles as soon as possible. (A new one costs about $2.) Many homeowners feel comfortable doing this themselves. Electricians will charge about $8 or $10 per outlet, although there’s likely to be a minimum charge for small jobs.

Information that is being provide is for Educational Purpose, Any electric work that is needing to be done, should be done by a Licensed Electrician.

Source:This Old House

Don’t break the bank this fall and winter

October 31st, 2013

(NC) If you could save money this fall and winter with just a few simple solutions, you would – wouldn’t you? It’s impossible to know what the colder seasons will bring this year, but instead of waiting to find out, prepare yourself now with an easy, do-it-yourself project: home weatherization. Follow these few quick fixes to ready your home – and keep your heating bill down in the cooler months ahead.

• Winterize windows: With so many edges and gaps, windows are a prime spot for energy loss. For an inexpensive fix, use a plastic window film to keep the cold air out. Crystal-clear Duck brand Roll-On Window Kits come with a pre-taped top edge for easy installation, and they’re easy to remove. When the warm weather returns, simply pull them off.

Avoid door draft:. Cracks and gaps around doors can let cold air in and warm air out. To block out the winter wind, install an insulating door seal made of rubber or foam. For interior doors, one solution is the Double Draft Seal from Duck brand, which has a patent-pending design that hugs the door from both sides for two levels of protection against drafts. For interior or exterior doors, try the brand’s Triple Draft Seal. Its inner seal helps retain room temperature, an outer seal blocks drafts and bottom fins help keep out moisture and water. For the perimeter of the door, use a seal made of heavy-duty EPDM rubber – these won’t freeze or crack in extremely cold temperatures.

Look for hidden air leaks: Electrical sockets and light switches can be an unexpected source of drafts through walls. Install flame retardant, Duck brand Socket Sealers behind socket and switch covers to keep cold air out.

Check your outdoors: Don’t forget to make sure you backyard is also prepared. Cover patio furniture to prevent rust, store the grill in the garage if you can and make sure you have plenty of shovels and salt for when the snow falls.

With a simple weatherization approach, you can stay warm and save on your heating bill when fall and winter roll in. More information is available at www.duckbrand.com

Source: www.newscanada.com

Information that is being provide is for Educational Purpose, Any electric work that is needing to be done, should be done by a Licensed Electrician.

Get superior performance from a lithium-ion battery

October 22nd, 2013

(NC) Lithium-ion batteries have taken their rightful place as the most common rechargeable battery type on the market.

Due to their low weight, very good lifecycle and higher capacity (a lot of energy can be stored in them), the lithium battery has become a staple of entire power tool lineups, say specialists in this field. A prime example is the Ryobi ONE+ system of power tools.

“Since its inception in 2004, the ONE+ collection delivers the widest range of cordless tools powered by the same interchangeable battery and charger system,” says Becky Yan at leading manufacturer, Ryobi. “Now including more than 50 different tools in all – from hedge trimmers and leaf blowers to drills, impact drivers – and even a cordless brad nailer that is tough enough for construction pros, every 18-volt tool runs on every other 18 volt battery. The lithium-ion and the new higher performance lithium+ batteries even fit into our company’s first cordless drill introduced in 1997.”

Yan points out that all Ryobi’s lithium-ion ONE+ tools are coloured green, and they’re completely interchangeable with the nickel cadmium-powered, blue-coloured tools and older Ni-Cad batteries. You get maximum performance from Lithium+ with up to 4amp/hours of runtime or greatest economy with nickel cadmium batteries. It’s up to you. Any tool, any battery, one charger.

Source: www.newscanada.com

Information that is being provide is for Educational Purpose, Any electric work that is needing to be done, should be done by a Licensed Electrician.

Prepare for a safe heating Season — From Manitoba Hydro New Letter

October 16th, 2013

Manitoba Hydron news letter aug 2013

Manitoba Hydron news letter aug 2013-1

Source: Furnace Safety

Information that is being provide is for Educational Purpose, Any electric work that is needing to be done, should be done by a Licensed Electrician.

Heat your home without burning a hole in your pocket

October 15th, 2013

 

(NC) Each year when the temperature begins to drop, we start thinking about a “fall and winter to-do list” with items such as winter tires, shovels and new boots likely at the top of the list. However, one thing homeowners often don’t realize is that fall is the best time to start preparing your home’s heating system to avoid issues in the fall and winter.

 

Dave Walton, Director of Home Ideas for Direct Energy, shares the following tips for getting your heating system ready for winter:

 

• Prepare ahead of time: Schedule a furnace maintenance appointment before the snow arrives to get your equipment inspected.

 

• Replace your filters: Clogged filters mean your furnace motor has to work harder, which eats up more energy. Filters should be washed or replaced every three months.

 

• Out with the old, in with the new: Consider upgrading your old furnace to a new energy efficient unit. High efficiency = high savings. An older conventional burning furnace operates at 60 per cent efficiency. What does that mean? 40 cents of every dollar you spend on heating your home is going right up the chimney. A new high-efficiency furnace operates at over 90 per cent; wasting less than 10 cents on every dollar you spend heating your home.

 

• Get more insulation: Improving your home’s insulation is one of the fastest and most cost effective ways to cut down on your heating costs. You should have approximately 12 inches of insulation in your attic, anything less and you should get it topped up.

 

• Keep an eye on your energy bills: It’s also a good idea to keep an eye on energy use to ensure you’re able to manage your heating costs. Household heating costs makes up a significant part of our winter expenses in Canada so it’s important to be aware of your usage.

 

For more information and to get answers to all your home maintenance questions, visit Dave’s Corner at www.davescorner.ca.

 Source: www.newscanada.com

Information that is being provide is for Educational Purpose, Any electric work that is needing to be done, should be done by a Licensed Electrician.

 

Don’t Get Zapped by Electrical Hazards in Your Home

October 15th, 2013

Do It YourselfWhile you probably know not to put your finger in a socket (I wasn’t nearly as smart when I was younger), you may not be aware of all the electrical hazards in and around your home. According to Electrical Safety Foundation International, electrical fires are the fourth leading cause of fires in the home and result in more than 50,000 incidents each year. Given the potential risk and danger, you need to be very aware of what’s lurking in your home. Even though your home insurance policy may cover most resulting electrical fires, it’s always a better policy to not have a fire or injury in the first place.

The most critical part of your home’s electrical safety is the system itself. While you might think about appliances and other devices that use electricity in the home, the wiring behind the walls will prove to be an even more important factor. If you live in a modern home that was built with the most current technology and safety mechanisms engineered into the process, you are probably in pretty good shape. On the other hand, if you have an older home where the electrical system has not been upgraded, you might have some things to be concerned about. A good friend of mine lives in an older home that has knob and tube wiring, something that hasn’t been in common use for decades. However, since she has not made any changes or redesigns to her home, the wiring system can stay intact, even if it’s a less than ideal situation.

Unfortunately, older wiring systems are not always as safe as current methods. As a result, insurance companies may be somewhat reluctant to insure your older home with out-of-date wiring. If you are able to secure proper insurance, you might be faced with higher premiums due to the higher risk of fire. Additionally, current building codes mean that a claim in your house would likely trigger the building ordinance coverage, whereby you must pay to upgrade the system. There is coverage for this to a limited extent on the home insurance policy, but again, it is costly and there is often a limit to how much the insurance company will pay.

Apart from the fire dangers to your house itself, there’s also the danger to persons in the home from a fire. You also need to consider the basic concerns of being shocked or, worse, electrocuted. Even the most modern systems can sometimes still pose a danger or threat to those residing in your home – and I’m not only referring to small children. Bad wiring or defects in the wires can pose a threat to anyone in the house. In addition to the home’s basic electrical system, you also need to mindful of the electrical devices you are using. In today’s modern world, virtually everything that is considered a tool or necessity in the home is powered by electricity. We often take for granted their basic safety. However, you should never become complacent. Always inspect your devices before plugging them in and don’t take chances with anything that appears to be worn or frayed. The potential danger is definitely not worth the risk.

The Underwriters Laboratories’ Safety Smart website is a great resource for safety tips and it’s presented in a family-friendly format.

Source: HomeInsurance.Org

Information that is being provide is for Educational Purpose, Any electric work that is needing to be done, should be done by a Licensed Electrician.

Problem areas can lead to high home energy costs

October 10th, 2013

(NC) Maintaining a household is a big investment, and your energy bills can be among your greatest monthly expenses. However, there are many things you can do in and around your home that will reduce energy usage and save you money.

Dave Walton, Director of Home Ideas at Direct Energy, says there are five areas homeowners tend to neglect when thinking about energy efficiency:

• Out with the old, in with the new – Replace your old in-efficient furnace, especially if it’s more than 17 years old. A new high efficiency furnace will operate at 96 per cent efficiency.

• Don’t forget the AC unit – Often the central air conditioning unit is the same age as the furnace. Replace it at the same time as the furnace so that both are operating efficiently.

• Upgrade the thermostat too – Making a smart investment in a new high efficiency furnace and AC is further enhanced if you have a programmable thermostat that is designed to operate with your new equipment.

• Have you looked in your attic recently? – Especially with an older home, look into the attic and confirm how much insulation you have. If it is at or below the top of the ceiling joists in the attic, have it topped up with blown-in insulation.

• Fix leaks – Simple repairs like replacing exterior door sweeps, adding new or replacing old and worn weather-stripping to doors and openable windows, can quickly decrease the air leakage in the home and increase the comfort level year round.

For more information, visit Dave’s Corner at  davescorner.ca

Source: www.newscanada.com

Information that is being provide is for Educational Purpose, Any electric work that is needing to be done, should be done by a Licensed Electrician.

Home Electrical Service Size — By Wurch Electric

September 27th, 2013

Home Electrical Service Size

Do you know what it’s all about?

Trevor Welby-Solomon RHI, CRP, VP

Pillar to Postwww.pillartopost.com

Most people don’t know the electrical service size for their house. Nor do they know how to figure it out. As a result, electrical service size is often listed incorrectly, either because the homeowner was not sure, or the listing agent made an incorrect guess. This article serves as a short primer on the significance and assessment of the electrical service size for residential homes.

What is electrical service size?
First things first, what the heck is electrical service size anyway? Many homebuyers seem to think that whatever it is, more is better. Indirectly, the service size indicates how many electrical appliances or fixtures can run at the same time. For example, if you have an electric stove and electric clothes dryer, you will need a larger service size than if you have a gas stove and a gas clothes dryer. But you do not always need more. If your service size is adequate, upgrading the service to higher amperage only lightens your wallet.

How much do I need?
A common misconception: if you have a high-power computer or stereo system, you need a larger service size. The truth is these appliances take very little power, even though they are advertised as “high power”. On the other hand, electric stoves, electric clothes dryers or electric hot water tanks draw a lot of power. Electric heat also draws a lot of power.

Here is the typical current draw for a few major appliances:
· An electric stove with the oven and a few stovetop elements running may draw 25 or 30 amps
· An electric clothes dryer may draw 20 amps
· An electric hot water heater may draw 20 amps
· A hair dryer may draw about 12 amps
· A toaster draws approximately 10 amps
· Central air conditioning draws around 15 to 20 amps
· A hot tub may draw 20 to 40 amps

Here is a look at the service size for a few typical houses:
Description and Possible Service Size
3bdrm, 2story; Gas heat,100 amps
3bdrm, 2story; Electric heat,150-200 amps
5bdrm, Gas heat 150-200 amps
5000 sq-ft home, Gas heat, 200 amps
(This is typical, but you might find it as high as 400 in unusual circumstances)

Largest every-day service size you will most often see 200 amps (The size is usually as big as it gets, but most homes do not need even this amount)

Largest service size you will see, but only in unusual circumstances is 400 amps … (This size is unusual and may only be found in a very large home with lot of electrical appliances)

The components of the electrical service
Before determining the electrical service size of a house, you need to know about a few of the components that make up the electrical service.

The service entrance cable:
This cable brings electricity into your house. It usually runs down the outside wall of the house inside a conduit. In newer areas of the city, the cables run underground.

The meter:
The meter measures how much electrical energy you consume. The meter itself is the property of the utility. The base of the meter, or the socket that the meter sits in, is the property of the homeowner.

The conduit:
The conduit is the pipe that the cables pass through. The conduit protects the cables from mechanical damage.

The service box:
The service box contains the main fuses or breakers. In some cases, the service box is a separate item. In modern installations, the service box is combined with the main breaker panel (called a combination panel). This photograph shows a combination panel with the main breaker on the left and the distribution breakers on the right.

The main fuse or breaker:
The main fuse or breaker is the gatekeeper. If the main breaker is 100 amps, when you attempt to draw more than 100 amps, the breaker shuts off to protect the rest of the system from overheating.

The distribution panel:
The distribution panel is either a fuse panel or a breaker panel. Today, breakers are used almost exclusively because they are more convenient.

How can I determine the service size?
Determining service size can be tricky. There are a number of variables that can throw you off. Often, the determining factor is not visible. We recommend that you exercise caution when determining service size. It is easy to get it wrong. Having said that, here is how you can approach it for the best results.

Most of the time, you can nail down the service size by the rating of the main breaker or fuse. This photograph shows a main fuse. There are two but you can only see one of them in this picture. It says 100 amps on this fuse. This is most likely a 100 amp service.

Although the first guess comes from the main breaker or fuse, it is possible to get it wrong. Here’s why: the service size is determined from the rating of the smallest component in a chain of components that make up the electrical service. These components are:

· The service entrance cable
· The meter and meter base
· The conduit pipe
· The service box
· The main fuse or breaker

Compatibility
The components described above have to be compatible. For example, if the service entrance cable is only rated for 100 amps and the main breaker is 200 amps, the system has a problem. Since it is possible for 200 amps to flow through a 100-amp cable, this situation presents a fire hazard.

Now, if the service entrance cable is rated for 200 amps and the main breaker is only rated for 100 amps, no problem exists. The maximum that can be drawn through the cable before the breaker shuts off is 100 amps, but the cable can handle 200 amps. This compatibility issue is true for all of the components that make up the electrical service. All of the components in the system must be rated to handle at least as much as the main fuse or breaker.

Let’s go back to the example of a cable rated for 100 amps with a main breaker rated at 200 amps: the service size is 100 amps not 200 amps because the definition of service size is the rating of the smallest component in the chain. You may argue that the breaker will not shut off until it reaches 200 amps, and you may call it an unsafe 200-amp service, but the definition of service size means it is an unsafe 100-amp service. What is most important in this case is to focus on the fact that the service is unsafe, regardless of a correct assessment of the service size.

Cable rating
The main service entrance cables are rated for the maximum current they can handle. This is a critical component and it must be compatible with the main fuse or breaker as described above.

Here is a chart of ratings of common service entrance cables.
Cable Size (copper wire size – USA) Service Size Compatibility
#6 AWG; 60 amp service
#4 AWG; 100 amp service
#2 AWG; 125 amp service
#1 AWG; 150 amp service
#2/0 AWG; 200 amp service

Conduit rating
The diameter of the conduit is a tip off for service size. Once again, there is no down side to using an oversized conduit so don’t be fooled.
· 60 amp service – 1 inch conduit minimum
· 100 amp service – 1 ¼ inch conduit minimum
· 200 amp service – 2 inch conduit minimum

How not to determine service size
One of the tricks to determining service size is not to be fooled by the ratings on the components of the service entrance. For example, if the electric meter is rated for 200 amps, this simply means that it can handle up to 200 amps. But there is no reason it cannot be used for a 100-amp service.

· Do not use the rating on the meter alone but make sure it is compatible
· Do not use the size of the conduit alone but make sure it is compatible
· Do not use the rating on the service box alone but make sure it is compatible
· Do not use the rating on the distribution panel alone but make sure it is compatible

The right way to determine service size – step by step
If you do this you have a very good chance of guessing it right.
· Identify the main fuse or breaker. Start with the assumption that this is the service size
· Check that the service box and breaker panel are rated for at least this much
· Check the meter and verify that it is rated for at least this much
· Check the size of the conduit
· Check the size of the cable and verify that it is rated for at least this much. This is the part that may not be possible for you. If you can’t read the data on the cable because it is not accessible or it’s faded, you have to rely on your experience recognizing cable sizes. Unless you were an electrician in a former life, you may get this wrong.

We said that you have a good chance of guessing it right if you follow the steps above. This implies that it is still possible to get it wrong. There are a couple of obscure situations that could throw a wrench in the works such as service cable that is ‘de-rated’ due to its inferior temperature rating. Unfortunately, you are just not going to know, but on the bright side, neither will anybody else, except perhaps an electrician.

Here is a real example:
Let’s look at ratings for the meter, the main breaker and the breaker panel (shown above). The meter is rated at 200 amps, the distribution panel is rated at 125 amps while the main breaker is rated at 100 amps. What is the service size? Answer – 100 amps. Surprised? Don’t worry , most people have been doing it wrong!

Caution! Avoid electrocution. Do not open any panel covers or doors. Some of our photographs show electrical boxes open with live components exposed. These photographs were done with the aid of an expert in electrical power. We do not suggest you open or touch any electrical equipment.

Source: www.globalbusinessmobiletalent.com

Information that is being provide is for Educational Purpose, Any electric work that is needing to be done, should be done by a Licensed Electrician.

Call Manitoba Hydro before you Dig, Drill or Excavate

September 27th, 2013

Hydro News Letter July 2013 - resized Hydro News Letter July 2013-1 - resized

Source: Manitoba Hydro News Letter July 2013

Information that is being provide is for Educational Purpose, Any electric work that is needing to be done, should be done by a Licensed Electrician.

 
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