OVERWIRED PANEL — From Wurch Electric @ Wurchelectric.com

August 18th, 2012

Illustration: Ian Warpole

PROBLEM #6
Overwired panels contain more circuits than they are rated to handle

6. OVERWIRED PANEL

What it means: The panel contains more circuits than it’s rated to handle, because too many single-pole breakers (one circuit) have been replaced with tandem breakers (two circuits) in one slot. (Tandem breakers aren’t the same as high-amp double-pole breakers, which take up two slots with one circuit.) A label on each panel specifies how many circuits the panel can accommodate.

Code violation? Yes.

Danger level: Minimal. It may become an issue when the house is being sold and an inspector looks inside the panel.

Solution: Add a subpanel with a few extra slots ($250), or, if you’re planning major home improvements, replace the existing panel with a larger model ($500 to $800).

Source : This Old House

Information that is being provide is for Educational Purpose, Any electric work that is needing to be done, should be done by a Licensed Electrician.

Hiring a Contractor — From Wurch Electric @ WurchElectric.com

August 15th, 2012

 

At some time, most homeowners will hire someone for repairs or renovations. Even a homeowner experienced in home repairs may have to hire a contractor or renovator because of the size or level of difficulty of the job. This fact sheet will help you choose a contractor and work effectively and fairly with the contractor to achieve the results you desire.
Who Do You Hire?

Once you have decided to renovate and know, or at least have a good idea of, what you want, choosing a contractor or renovator is a crucial decision. It’s not something you should rush into.

The contractor you hire should have the technical, business and interpersonal skills, the tools and the experience needed to do the job you want done. Hire a contractor who has experience with projects similar to yours. This contractor will know what materials and techniques are needed for your work; and even better, about problems with similar work — and how to solve them.

For large renovation projects, you can hire a renovator to take charge of the whole job since many renovation contracting companies are set up to handle both design and renovation work. You may hire an architect, architectural technologist (depending on the size of the project) or a designer to prepare your project’s plans for permit application and then invite contractors or renovators to submit a quotation based on these plans. These professionals may also provide their services to oversee your project, which may include obtaining all necessary permits, hiring a contractor(s) and the supervision of the work.
Finding and Choosing a Contractor

Start by looking for several suitable contractors. A good source of referrals may be a family member, friend, or neighbour who has had similar work completed. They can tell you about the dependability of the contractors they worked with, the quality of the work and their overall experience with that company. Other sources are your local homebuilder and renovator associations; local building supply stores; in some municipalities, your local building department; and through contractors’ websites on the Internet.

Discuss your project with a few potential contractors to get their advice and suggestions on how they would do the work. At the first meeting, some may give you a rough estimate of costs, depending on the project’s scope and complexity. The first meeting is usually more to get to know the contractor and the contractor’s work. Unless you have been able to check out the contractor ahead of time you should not sign anything or pay anything at this stage.

You want to find out as much as you can, so ask a lot of questions, such as:

How long have you been in business?
What work are you, or your subcontractors, licensed to do, e.g., electrical, plumbing?
What kind of work do you specialize in?
Have you done a similar job before?
Will you use your own crew for the work or will you subcontract all or part of the job?
How would you handle a specific problem related to this project (e.g., installing kitchen cabinets on your sloping floor)?
How will you deal with the health and energy efficiency aspects of the job?
How and when do you clean up, particularly fine dust?
What work schedule will you follow?
What kind of warranty do you offer and what does it cover?
Do you carry workers’ compensation and liability insurance?
Will you provide a written contract?
Will you take out all required permits (e.g., building, plumbing, electrical)?

You won’t offend reputable firms with questions. If a contractor doesn’t seem to know much about the technical details of the job or doesn’t want to talk about them, you may have the wrong contractor.

If the contractor plans to do the whole job alone, make sure he or she has all the necessary skills and qualifications.

Most importantly, be sure you can get along with the contractor. If you cannot communicate effectively with the contractor, things can get very tense in a lengthy project. You want a contractor who will explain what’s going on as the project takes shape, who will discuss problems reasonably and who will work with you to make the result as good as it can be.

You also want someone who’s willing and able to help you refine your plans where possible, resulting in a more desirable and cost-effective project. A contractor who is knowledgeable about the type of work you’re doing should be able to suggest ways to get what you want and meet your budget.

The best proof of quality is satisfied customers. The contractors you decide to meet with should have references from at least three previous clients who have had similar work done. Don’t accept the references at face value. Phone them and ask about their experience with the contractor and their tradespeople and ask them if they were satisfied with the quality of the work. Were there any problems? Did the contractor keep them informed throughout the project? Did the contractor’s crew keep a clean work site? Was the work done on schedule? Were there changes to the scope of the work and if so how were they handled? Would they hire the contractor again or recommend the company to friends or family?

If the previous clients are willing, visit them to see the finished job. Their willingness itself is usually a sign that they were satisfied. Check with your local Better Business Bureau. It records complaints about contractors in your community.
Getting Estimates or Proposals

How many estimates do you need? There are no hard and fast rules here. Some consumers prefer to get a number of bids before making a decision. Others find that after the interview process, there is one contractor they strongly prefer and only ask that contractor to submit a formal written estimate or proposal. What really matters is that you end up feeling that you have adequate information to make the right choice of contractor.

As a general rule, with the proper drawings and specifications, three estimates will usually provide sufficient information for you to make a decision. To get estimates, especially for substantial projects, you’ll need good-quality drawings and detailed specifications. You can either use an architect or designer, or you can hire a renovator who offers design services as well as renovation services. In this latter case, the drawings can become part of the overall contract if you hire the renovator for the entire job. But you don’t have to use the same renovator for the work. Should you choose to use the set of drawings provided by this renovator to obtain other estimates, you may be required to pay for them.

Even with a small project, a set of written specifications is needed. Be as specific as you can: what type of flooring, what kind and brand of doors and windows, what kind of finishes you want.

For a large project, it can take two to three weeks for a contractor to prepare an estimate. Ask the contractor to submit it in person so you can discuss the estimate with them. Compare the estimate carefully and make sure that everything you ask for is in the estimate. It should include everything that the contractor will have to do to complete the job. Assume that anything not listed is not included in the price. As well, make sure the contractor provides you with a construction schedule.

In some cases, a contractor will give you a “fixed price” quote. A fixed price includes all the materials, labour, equipment and fees, plus contingencies, overhead and profit. In some cases allowances are established for items which you have yet to select, e.g., flooring and light fixtures. The allowance, which is only an estimate, is later adjusted once you have made your final selection.

If it is difficult to estimate just how much the job will cost — for example, for an old house that might need extra work — you can use the “cost-plus method” for contracts.

In a cost-plus contract, you pay the contractor the actual cost for labour, materials, equipment and a percentage for overhead and profit. Cost-plus contracts leave costs open-ended, so it’s best to set a limit so costs don’t get out of hand.

Remember, renovation may uncover hidden problems, so make sure you include a contingency budget to cover unforeseen costs.

Another option is a design-build contract, in which a renovator designs and carries out the whole project. You can use either a fixed price or cost-plus contract, again with a set cost limit.

Don’t automatically choose the contractor who gives the lowest estimate. It may be unrealistically low. The contractor may not have understood the project, may be underestimating what it will take to complete the work, or simply trying to get a price advantage over the competitors. In any case, you could risk unexpected and additional costs, or you may end up with a job that leaves you unsatisfied.

Look for a fair price. Factor in any differences in what the contractors are offering and the skills they bring to the job. Then add the intangibles: reputation, willingness to make suggestions and offer advice, the likelihood of standing behind the work. Choose the contractor you feel will give you the best overall value for your money.
Get it in Writing

Do not be tempted by a contractor who doesn’t have an address, doesn’t want a written contract and offers a discount if you pay cash. This type of underground economy transaction involves many risks and pitfalls that offset any savings to the homeowner.

For example, contractors who insist on cash may be unlicensed and uninsured; and without a written contract your cash advances are unprotected. They could neglect to get the required permits or inspections. Product warranties may not be valid if a recognized contractor does not install the items.

As well, an underground contractor may do poor work and create health and safety problems. If one of the contractor’s crew is improperly trained, is injured on the job or damages your property or a neighbour’s property, your homeowner’s insurance policy might not cover you and you could be liable.

A cash deal may leave you with no legal recourse if something goes wrong or the work isn’t satisfactory, or if the contractor walks off the job without finishing it. In fact, it makes it difficult for you to prove the contractor was ever there. And after you have paid the contractor, you may find that materials haven’t been paid for or workers haven’t been paid — and you are responsible for the bills. For your own protection and peace of mind, it’s best to deal in a legal and responsible way — always get it in writing.
The Contract

A detailed written contract between you and the contractor you hire is essential to any renovation or home repair project, no matter its size. Even the smallest job should be put in writing. For detailed information as to what should be included in a contract, making payments and to see an example of a contract refer to the About Your House titled “Sample Renovation Contract”.
Completion Certificate

When the job is finished, the contractor may ask you to sign a certificate of completion. Don’t sign it until you have thoroughly inspected the work. If the contractor has to return later to finish a few minor details, you should note this, and if appropriate, hold back a portion of the payment to cover the outstanding work.

Professional contractors offer a warranty on their work and will come back if something goes wrong.
Holdbacks

There are three types of holdbacks:

Builders Lien Holdback — This type of holdback is intended to provide homeowners with protection should subcontractors or suppliers place liens against the property to secure payment for work performed, and who may not have been paid by the general contractor, for their services. This allows a period of time, after the project is substantially completed, for them to make any required claim. At times, the general contractor will arrange for these funds to be held in trust by a lawyer. Where there are no subcontractors or suppliers involved with the project, this requirement will not apply.
Note: The Builders Lien Holdback funds cannot be used to correct deficiencies. Each province has its own regulations regarding this type of holdback.Verify with your provincial authority for such rules or regulations in your area.

Deficiency Holdback — When a project is substantially complete, there will often be a number of items that are incomplete and/or which may need to be corrected. It is a standard procedure to hold back a reasonable amount of money (e.g., cost per item or a percentage of the total cost of the project) to cover the cost for these items. Once these items have been satisfactorily completed, complete payment is forwarded to your contractor.

Seasonal or Delivery Holdback — Depending on the time of the year (season) that your project is carried out, there may be items that cannot be completed (i.e., exterior painting, landscaping, etc.) and/or there may be products/material that are not readily available. In these situations, it is standard procedure to hold back payment(s) equaling the cost of the items remaining to be completed.

Working with your Contractor

Once the job is under way, you’ll see a lot of your contractor and the crew. The job will go much better if there is mutual respect and you co-operate with them. Talk with the contractor, so you know what’s going on and what might be needed from you — an empty driveway so the delivery van can bring in the new bathtub, for example. But don’t call every five minutes. Make a list of your questions and save them for a time which you are both available.

In spite of a clear, detailed contract, disputes can, and occasionally do, arise for any number of reasons. Good communication can go a long way in settling any disagreements between you and your contractor. As a first step, you should sit down together to discuss the problem calmly and seek a solution that you both can live with comfortably. This is usually the fastest, least expensive and ultimately, most satisfactory approach.

Try to be reasonable. Don’t overreact if something is wrong. Allow sufficient time for a response. As well, things the contractor can’t control, like bad weather and backordered components, can delay the job, so leave a little leeway in your schedule for them.

If these steps have not helped, you can follow the dispute resolution method, or mediator as identified in the contract. Architects and construction arbitrators are often used to settle any disputes.

As a last resort, and in cases where things are going so badly that the project seems unworkable, you have the option of cancelling the contract. This is why it’s wise to put a termination clause in the contract. You’ll likely have to pay to get out of the deal, so it’s best to agree on the cancellation penalty before you start.

If you think that some of the work is not up to local building standards, report it in writing to the appropriate inspection department, with a copy to your contractor. If the work doesn’t meet building code requirements, the contractor should have to correct it at his or her expense.

Also, you can report poor workmanship and unsatisfactory business practices to the government department that granted the contractor a business licence, where applicable.
Consumer Protection Laws

There are several laws protecting consumers. Provincial and territorial consumer affairs or consumer relations departments usually administer consumer protection laws. They can help you resolve problems between you and your contractor. Sometimes a phone call is enough, but a letter outlining the problem (giving names, dates, addresses and details) is often required before any action can be taken.

The consumer protection authority may send a building inspector to examine the work. The inspector’s report may be enough to settle the dispute. If not, the consumer protection office may provide mediation. The power of a government consumer protection office is a strong incentive for settlement. If it isn’t and legal action is required, the consumer protection office will give you further advice and assistance.

The Better Business Bureau, a monitoring agency maintained by the business community, will also handle consumer complaints and mediate disputes and try to get a fair settlement.

If legal action is necessary, you may be able to take the contractor to small claims court without having to hire a lawyer or the complications and delays of a formal court case. Although small claims court is relaxed and informal, its decisions are binding. The size of the claim you can make depends on the province or territory where you live. Your local courthouse can give you this information and direct you to the office that handles small claims cases.
About Insurance

It’s important to make sure the contractor has workers’ compensation and third-party liability insurance for all the people on the job and damage they may cause ($2 million is standard, this may not be the case in rural areas). Your local homebuilders’ association is a good source of information for what is standard in your area. Don’t just take the contractor’s word — ask to see a certificate and check to make sure it’s current. Don’t accept or assume any liability for the contractor or trades people.

As for your liability, your homeowner’s insurance policy may cover you during a project done by a renovator but you should always advise your insurance provider of any renovation work ahead of time. However, if you’re acting as your own general contractor and employing trades people, your policy won’t automatically cover you. You’ll have to ask your insurance company for temporary coverage, which will likely involve a small extra premium. Again, make sure any tradespeople you hire have their own insurance.

Checklist — Hiring a Contractor

What to do first
Write a description of the work you want done, with as much detail as possible.
Check with your municipal building department to ensure that the work can be done and if zoning approval or any special permits are required.
Find a contractor
Ask friends and neighbours for recommendations.
Get names from your family members, friends, local homebuilder and renovator associations, building supply outlets and, in some municipalities, your local building department.
Ask contractors for their business licence number and check with the local licensing office and the firm’s insurance company for public liability and property damage insurance and workers’ compensation.
Ask for references from past customers.
Check with the Better Business Bureau for complaints against the contractor.
Establishing the cost: getting estimates or proposals
Number of estimates or proposals: __1 __2 __3 Do you have:
A complete description of the work to be done by the selected contractor?
Samples and literature showing different products that could be used?
Depending on the size of the project, plans or sketches and specifications of the work to be completed?
The contract should contain
Correct and complete address of the property where the work will be done.
Your name and address.
Contractor’s name, address, telephone and GST numbers.
Detailed description of the work, plans (or sketches) and a detailed specification of the materials (type, quality, model) to be used.
The right to retain a lien holdback as specified in provincial law.
A clause stating that work will conform to the requirements of all applicable codes, such as building, safety and fire codes.
Start and completion dates.
The price and payment schedule (keep in mind the lien and seasonal holdbacks).
Agreement on who (homeowner or contractor) is responsible for all necessary permits, licenses, inspections and certificates.
Contractor’s responsibilities include:
Public liability insurance.
Property damage insurance.
Identifying any necessary permits and ensuring all legal requirements are satisfied.
Workers’ compensation for all employees of the contractor or subcontractors.
All work carried out under the contractor, including work done by subcontractors.
Removal of construction debris when the job is finished.
Warranties on all contractor supplied work and materials (in addition to manufacturer’s warranties) for a period of at least one year.
Homeowner’s responsibilities include:
Ensuring that all contracted work conforms to zoning bylaws.
Ensuring adequate working space and freedom of movement for workers, and use of utilities.
Ensuring prompt payment according to the requirements of the law and the holdback and payment schedule.

Information that is being provide is for Educational Purpose, Any electric work that is needing to be done, should be done by a Licensed Electrician.

 

Source: CMHC

10 Inexpensive Tips To Save Electricity– From Wurch Electric @ WurchElectric.com

July 6th, 2012

10 Inexpensive Tips To Save Electricity

10 Inexpensive Tips To Save Electricity

In Canada, it is not an overstatement to say that finding ways to save electricity has become a national obsession. This is because electricity is the one utility bill that can be largely controlled by the user, unlike heating fuels that are needed mainly in the cold, Canadian winter. Just by following some easy guidelines even the utility bills from homes with electric heat can be kept cozy without a great outlay of money.

Many people think that they can have cheap electrical power by buying thousands of dollars of electrical generating devices to replace the power that comes through utility lines. However, the best way to save electricity is not to use it in the first place.

Another ;popular misconception is that curbing energy use means giving up heat and a normal lifestyle. Nothing could be more exaggerated than this way of thinking. In fact, saving electricity just requires thinking in a different way about how it is used. A few small changes can add up to hundreds of dollars on the yearly electrical power bill.

1. Phantom Power Bleeding

In the days when televisions relied on vacuum tubes it took almost five minutes for the set to become completely operational. This was because diodes and the picture tube needed to ‘;warm up.’; To speed up the process the tubes were kept warm by a trickle of electricity, a unique feature called ‘;instant on.’; Transistors changed this to some degree but the cathode ray tube and indicator lights still drew a minute amount of power. Today, many digital devices in the home remain plugged in when not needed. Computers, televisions, battery chargers and many other devices draw minute amounts of electricity that can amount to almost hundred dollars a year in an average home. So, hook your devices to a power bar and swicth this off when the devices are not in use.

2. LED Lights

It was only a few years ago that CFL’s, compact fluorescent lights, brought to a close the hundred-year rule of the traditional incandescent light bulb. In less than four years from now LED’s, light emitting diodes, will overtake CFI’s to become the primary lighting source. LED’s use a minute amount of power and can be run on very low voltage systems.

3. Buy Electricity in Off-Peak Hours

In many Canadian cities the hours between 7:00am and 11:00pm is when the majority of electricity is being consumed. During the other eight hours the use is low so the cost drops as much as 40%. A time-of-use system supports an ETS, electric storage system, where electric heat is stored in ceramic blocks during the low-rate period. When the power rate goes up the heating system shuts off and the stored heat is released from the bricks by a small fan and warms the home. The water tank can also be heated during the low period.

4. Leaking Taps

Another big waste of money in an electrically-heated water tank is leaking hot water taps. In fact leaky washers can drain hundreds of dollars in wasted electricity. Replacing washers for taps costs pennies a piece and corroded tap cartridges can be bought for $7-$14.

5. Lights in Motion

Security lights are another big drain for electricity. This is because many homes will have night lights on in their yard all night. There is a light system that emits a dim light when dusk comes and then switches to bright when the sensor detects motion. The property is lit for both security and navigating at night but also provides a bright light only when needed.

6. Wash in Cold Water

The new detergents are so thorough that washing in hot water is a thing of the past. This could save hundreds of dollars in a year.

7. Clothes Lines

Clothes dryers are a big drain on electricity. Years ago almost everyone dried their clothes on a clothesline in the yard. Today there are many types of clotheslines that can be mounted both inside and out of the house. Drying just half the clothes on clotheslines will save over a hundred dollars in electricity annually.

8. Plugging Holes

Older homes have dozens of small leaks to the outdoors because of both wood shrinkage and deteriorated caulking around windows, doors and utility lien inlets. Re-caulking these areas will save money for those with electric heat. The rewards are paid back within a winter in energy savings. Also, replace weasther stripping on doors and windows.

9. Solar-Powered Lights

Both interior and exterior nights can be changed over to solar-powered LED lights for safety and night navigation. They are low voltage and the batteries for these lights can be recharged with solar energy during the day or run off a low trickle of electricity. They can also be mounted under the kitchen cabinets and over islands.

10. Hot Water Tank Jacket

For less than $50 the hot water tank can get an overcoat to keep it doubly warm. This means that the water will stay at peak temperature longer and that the heating element will not kick in as often.

Information that is being provide is for Educational Purpose, Any electric work that is needing to be done, should be done by a Licensed Electrician.

Source: Handy Canadian

NO GFCIs — From Wurch Electric @ WurchElectric.com

June 28th, 2012

 

5. NO GFCIs

What it means: Increased risk of electrocution in wet areas, such as baths and kitchens. GFCIs (ground-fault circuit interrupters) shut down circuits in 4 milliseconds, before current can cause a deadly shock.

Code violation? No; grandfathered in. (Codes today require GFCIs within 4 feet of any sink and on all garage, basement, and outdoor outlets.)

Danger level: High.

Solution: Replace old receptacles with GFCIs (about $12 each). This is a simple job that many homeowners do themselves. Electricians charge about $20 per outlet. (There will likely be a minimum job charge.) Note: As an alternative, GFCI breakers ($25) can be installed on the main panel. But then every time one trips, you have to go down to the basement to reset it.

 

Information that is being provide is for Educational Purpose, Any electric work that is needing to be done, should be done by a Licensed Electrician.

Source: This Old House

Before You Start Renovating Your Bathroom — From Wurch Electric @ WurchElectric.com

June 20th, 2012

Before You Start Renovating Your Bathroom

Renovating your bathroom is a great way to add value to your home — both for your family’s daily living and for future resale.

Before you decide to go ahead with a renovation, it’s critical to have a good idea of any underlying problems that could cause unwelcome and costly surprises. Taking time to find problems before you start your renovation will save you money, protect the indoor air quality and preserve the durability and structure of your home.

Common Situations

A bathroom renovation is one of the most common home improvement projects. Bathroom renovations come in all types and sizes—from a simple update of the flooring, to enlarging the room and replacing all fixtures and finishes.

Your project is unique, but your reasons for renovating will probably fall into these common categories.

  • Size and design — The room may be small or poorly designed.
  • Fixtures — The fixtures may be outdated, small, hard-to-clean, leaky, cracked or inefficient.
  • Structural — There may be problems that require structural changes or repairs.
  • Moisture — Excessive bathroom moisture may have deteriorated the bathroom surfaces, affected the indoor air quality or jeopardized the structure of your house.
  • Plumbing and electrical — If your house is 30–40 years old, the plumbing and electrical services may be outdated and need upgrading. Houses built prior to 1950 often have lead piping that may pose a health hazard.
  • Heating and ventilation — Bathrooms are often cold because of poor insulation or poor heat delivery. Ventilation is often inadequate, non-existent or causing secondary problems that need to be fixed.

Healthy HousingTM

Renovating is an ideal time to make your house healthier for you, the community and the environment. When doing your bathroom renovation, be sure to consider the five essentials of Healthy HousingTM.

House as a System

A house is much more than just four walls and a roof—it’s an interactive system made up of many components including the basic structure, heating, ventilating and air conditioning (HVAC) equipment, the external environment; and the occupants. Each component influences the performance of the entire system. A renovation provides an opportunity to improve how your house performs.

Bathroom renovations often include changes to HVAC equipment that can improve moisture management in the house. Structural changes may improve air sealing and insulation, resulting in increased occupant comfort and house durability.

Avoid Surprises

Before you start renovating, you’ll want to think about your bathroom, your needs and your budget. Look carefully for signs of deterioration and the possible causes. This will save you money and also help you to be better informed if you’re dealing with contractors. Reflecting on your project will also help you to decide whether you need the services of a professional. Being unsure of what needs to be done, recognizing that the job is very complicated, or that you don’t have the time or energy to do the work, are good reasons to hire a professional renovator.

Size and design
Ask yourself ...
  • What aspects of the current bathroom need to be changed?
  • Is the layout convenient? Is there enough storage?
  • Does the bathroom meet the needs of everyone in the household, including anyone with special needs, extended family and guests?
Consider your options...
  • Choose a design option that meets your existing and future needs. This may be a simple renovation to replace fixtures or a complex project to change the layout, enlarge the bathroom or add an extra bathroom.
... and if you dont
  • The layout may not be flexible enough to meet existing or future needs for space and storage.
  • Also, the layout may not be suitable for anyone with special needs such as wheelchair accessibility.

 

Fixtures
Ask yourself ...
  • Are the fixtures or seals damaged, cracked or leaky?
  • Is the styling outdated?
  • Are fixtures water and energy efficient?
  • Is there often condensation on the toilet tank?
Consider your options...
  • Replace or repair damaged, cracked, leaky fixtures or seals.
  • Choose fixtures that enhance the appearance of your bathroom while conserving water and energy.
  • Install an insulated toilet tank to keep the tank surface warmer.
... and if you dont
  • Plumbing leaks will continue to cause damage to finishes, the house structure and will promote mold growth.
  • Outdated fixtures usually mean higher energy and resource costs. New toilets can save more than 70 per cent of water per flush. Low-flow showerheads can save 60 per cent on water usage. Compact fluorescent light fixtures are four times more efficient than standard incandescent bulbs.
  • Cold toilet tanks are prone to condensation that leads to moisture problems.

 

Structural
Ask yourself ...
  • Which walls are load bearing? Will they need to be cut or removed as part of the renovation?
  • Are there any cracks, slopes or bulges that might mean that the floors or supporting members are deteriorating or inadequate?
  • Are the walls deep and strong enough to allow installation of grab bars, new windows, plumbing or ducts?
  • Are exterior walls, floors or ceilings cold or drafty? Is it noticeably cold while taking a bath?
Consider your options...
  • Assess the structure carefully. The proposed renovation must either fit the existing structure or the required structural changes must be possible. Expert help may be needed.
  • Repair or upgrade structural elements so that they are able to meet expected loads.
  • Install structural blocking or backing as needed for grab bar installations. Build out walls to accommodate new windows, plumbing or ducts.
  • Insulate and air seal the exterior wall, ceiling or floor assemblies to provide warm surfaces and a draft-free space.
... and if you dont
  • Improper structural changes, new loads or proceeding with changes that stress the structure may cause wall settling or collapse.
  • Ignoring the underlying cause of bulges, slopes or cracks can result in recurring problems.
  • Installing structural blocking for grab bars after renovations are complete will cause expense and disruption. Insufficient wall cavities may limit or prevent installation of windows, plumbing or proper ducts.
  • Poorly insulated exterior surfaces, poor quality windows or poor air sealing will result in cold surfaces that cause discomfort and are prone to condensation, which can lead to mold growth.

 

Moisture
Ask yourself ...
  • Are any finishes moisture damaged?
  • Are there water stains or visible mold growth on any surfaces?
  • Is there any blistering or peeling paint?
  • Are any surfaces buckled, swollen or rotten?
  • Is there any chipped or cracked grout or caulking?
Consider your options...
  • Determine if moisture comes from building leaks, plumbing leaks or high humidity. Fix the causes of the deterioration—for example, repair roof, wall or window leaks. Repair or replace all water damaged or deteriorating elements.
  • Clean up visible mold growth following CMHC guidelines.
  • Ventilate to control excess humidity.
  • Maintain grout and caulking to prevent water access to cavities.
  • Choose low-odour, low-toxicity materials and finishes to minimize the effects on indoor air quality (IAQ).
... and if you dont
  • Unresolved water problems will cause renovations to deteriorate quickly, whether the water comes from building leaks, plumbing leaks or the high humidity generated by bathroom activities. Leaks may contribute to mold growth and result in serious IAQ problems.
  • Hiding moisture damage behind new finishes can cause deterioration and mold growth to continue.

 

Plumbing and electrical
Ask yourself ...
  • Are there any signs of leaks such as mold growth, soft drywall or rotting materials?
  • Is there sufficient water pressure?
  • Do the pipes make a banging noise (water hammer)?
  • Does water drain slowly? Are there any unusual noises or smells coming from the drains?
  • If the house is pre-1950, are there any lead or galvanized steel waterpipes?
  • If the house is more than 30 years old, is the electric service and wiring safe and adequate?
  • Is the lighting adequate, providing good overall and task area light?
Consider your options...
  • Repair any plumbing leaks. Upgrade plumbing to meet current codes and the needs of new fixtures.
  • Install larger diameter water pipes to allow greater flow or pressure balancing valves.
  • Provide an air cushion to eliminate water hammer.
  • Ensure that the drainage system is sufficiently vented and that proper traps are installed.
  • Replace lead or corroded metal pipes.
  • Have an electrician inspect the electric service and wiring. Repair and upgrade electrical service and wiring if needed. Equip outlets with ground fault circuit interrupters for safety.
  • Update lighting so that it is adequate and energy efficient.
... and if you dont
  • If plumbing problems aren’t repaired, deterioration will continue and mold will grow.
  • Poor water pressure and water hammer problems will continue.
  • Plumbing problems such as slow drains or smells from poor venting will still be annoying, may get worse and be a source of poor IAQ.
  • Lead piping and corroded metals can contaminate water and leak.
  • Electrical service, wiring and outlets may be inadequate or unsafe for increased loads (e.g., whirlpool tubs or space heating). New lights or outlets may overload existing wiring.
  • Lighting may be poor and use energy inefficiently.

 

Heating and ventilation
Ask yourself ...
  • Is the bathroom cold?
  • Does condensation form on windows, mirrors or other surfaces?
  • Is there a stale, musty smell?
  • Is there an exhaust fan that doesn’t work? Does the fan vent directly to the outside? Is the duct insulated where it passes through unheated spaces?
Consider your options...
  • Provide an adequate heat source.
  • Ideally, install a whole house ventilation system, including a heat recovery ventilator.
  • If the whole house system is not an option, install a quiet exhaust fan with adequate airflow capacity to handle excess humidity. The fan should have a sound rating of two sones or lower and must vent properly to the outside.
... and if you dont
  • Problems can arise if heating, ventilating or air conditioning (HVAC) needs cannot be met by the capacity of the services available. The heating supply must be enough for comfort. Proper ventilation is needed to control excess humidity and to remove indoor pollutants.
  • HVAC problems affect how the entire house functions as a system.

 

Rewards

  • Correcting structural flaws, fixing leaks and making sure that all services are adequate before renovating will make renovations look better, work better and last longer.
  • Using low-odour and easy-to-clean finishes will improve IAQ and help prevent mold growth.
  • A warm, comfortable, attractive bathroom can contribute to a safe, relaxing lifestyle.
  • A bathroom renovation typically offers a 64-71 per cent return on your investment, meaning increased value of your house for resale.

 

Skills to Do the Job

A homeowner with good fix-it skills may be able to do some of the work including:

  • Removing old fixtures.
  • Gutting old wall surfaces.
  • Removing non-load bearing walls.
  • Fixing roof or window leaks.
  • Insulating, installing a vapour barrier and air sealing.

Serious structural work may require the services of a professional renovator. You’ll also likely need an electrician for any new wiring, a plumber for the plumbing work and a heating contractor to install or move heating or ventilation outlets. You may want to hire tradespeople to do the structural work, roofing, window repairs or installation and any exterior wall repairs.

Use the Bathroom Assessment Worksheet to record the present condition, any problems in your bathroom and preliminary costing.

Bathroom Assessment Worksheet
Room Dimensions
Present Condition / Problem Options or Upgrades Cost
Ceiling and Finishes
Walls and Finishes
Floor and Finishes
Room Lighting
Task Lighting
Windows
Doors
Vanity/Cabinets
Sink
Toilet
Bathtub
Shower
Grab Bars
Faucets
Plumbing
Electrical Service and Wiring
Heating and Cooling
Ventilation
Other

Costing Your Project

The cost of essential repairs will depend largely on the deterioration of the existing structure and how much professional labour is needed. Use these categories when costing your project.

Design changes. Structural considerations. Fixtures. Moisture damage and deteriorated finishes. Plumbing and electrical problems. Heating and ventilation. Permit and inspection costs.

Information that is being provide is for Educational Purpose, Any electric work that is needing to be done, should be done by a Licensed Electrician.

 

Source:  CMHC

TOO FEW OUTLETS — From Wurch Electric @ Wurchelectric.com

June 18th, 2012

Illustration: Ian Warpole

PROBLEM #4
Not enough outlets means you’re likely to rely on extension cords and power strips

4. TOO FEW OUTLETS

What it means: Heavy reliance on extension cords and power strips.

Code violation? No; grandfathered in. (Today’s codes require receptacles within 4 feet of a doorway and every 12 feet thereafter.)

Danger level: Minimal, as long as you use heavy-duty extension cords, 14-gauge or thicker. (The thicker the wire, the lower the gauge number.) Undersize extension cords (16-gauge or smaller) can overheat and ignite a fire if loads are too heavy.

Solution: Add more outlets. Expect to pay an electrician about $100 per first-floor outlet and double that for second-floor work. (There will likely be a minimum charge.) This work requires cutting holes in walls and ceilings to snake the wires. Some electricians will patch the holes; others leave the patching to you.

Source: This Old House

Information that is being provide is for Educational Purpose, Any electric work that is needing to be done, should be done by a Licensed Electrician.

 

LIGHTS FLICKER WHEN IT’S WINDY — From Wurch Electric @ WurchElectric.com

June 5th, 2012

LIGHTS FLICKER WHEN IT’S WINDY

Illustration: Ian Warpole

What it means: Frayed wiring in the weatherhead (the outdoor fitting where overhead cables from the power line come into the house) is causing a short whenever the cables move.

Code violation? No.

Danger level: High. Aside from the annoyance, the frayed wiring can arc and start a fire.

Solution: Contact the electric utility, which may replace the weatherhead at no charge.

 

Source: This Old House

Information that is being provide is for Educational Purpose, Any electric work that is needing to be done, should be done by a Licensed Electrician.

Before You Renovate — From Wurch Electric @ wurchelectric.com

June 4th, 2012

Before You Renovate…  Why Renovate?

Everyone has a different reason for wanting to renovate. Sometimes it’s the simple need for a change. Other times, the motivation is more practical. If you wake up one day with a puddle in the basement and a water-stained ceiling, you know you have to act fast.

 

From the planning stage to the final touches, this guide shares our experience and knowledge with you. And it tells you about some of the first-rate resources we’ve developed to deal with all kinds of renovation issues. In general, there are three types of renovation: lifestyle, retrofit, and maintenance and repair.

  • The rewardsLifestyle renovations improve your home­ and your way of life. They might involve building a sun room for pleasure, or converting unused attic space into living quarters to meet your changing needs.
  • Retrofit projects usually focus on your home’s shell or mechanical systems. Examples are upgrading your insulation, replacing your furnace, or putting on new siding.
  • Maintenance and repair renovations protect the investment you have made in your house through activities such as caulking windows, reshingling your roof, or replacing your eavestroughs.

 

Information that is being provide is for Educational Purpose, Any electric work that is needing to be done, should be done by a Licensed Electrician.

Source: Canada Mortgage & Housing

Uncovered junction boxes increase the risk of wire damage and shock — From Wurch Electric @ WurchElectric.com

May 16th, 2012

Illustration: Ian Warpole

PROBLEM #2
Uncovered junction boxes increase the risk of wire damage and shock

 

2. UNCOVERED JUNCTION BOX

What it means: Because a junction box houses the splices where wires are connected to one another, a person could inadvertently damage the wires or get a shock.

Code violation? Yes.

Danger level: Minimal, as long as wires aren’t within reach.

Solution: Spend a few cents to buy a new cover and install it with the screws provided.

Source: This Old House

Information that is being provide is for Educational Purpose, Any electric work that is needing to be done, should be done by a Licensed Electrician.

New Hydro program to help retrofit homes — From Wurch Electric @ Wurchelectric.com

May 8th, 2012

New Hydro program to help retrofit homes

By: Staff Writer

Posted: 10:43 AM | Comments: 38 (including replies) | Last Modified: 10:52 AM | Updates

 

HANDOUT Enlarge Image

A contractor installs batt insulation with the proper R-value for an attic space’s walls. Manitoba Hydro will provide assistance to homeowners wishing to upgrade their home’s energy efficiency.

Manitoba Hydro will pay for the upfront costs of home improvements that save energy, Premier Greg Selinger said today.

Selinger said the new financing program, to be in place this fall, Hydro will cover the costs of energy and water retrofits and then recover those costs through a monthly charge on the homeowner’s utility bill.

“More efficient homes and buildings make life more affordable for Manitoba families,” said Selinger. “Reducing our energy use also protects all Manitobans against future energy price increases while reducing greenhouse-gas emissions.”

Selinger said the benefit is that by attaching the cost to the meter, rather than a loan, it gives more flexibilty to energy-saving home improvements for homeowners.

More information about the program is mostly aimed at insulation upgrades to older homes, of which there are about 65,000 homes in the province that still need work.

Manitoba Hydro will roll out more details of the program in September.

Source : Winnipeg Free Press

Information that is being provide is for Educational Purpose, Any electric work that is needing to be done, should be done by a Licensed Electrician.

 
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